Show Detailing and the Basics of Show Car Care
by Paul Gasparola and Angela Brown
Professional Detailers Association

This article is designed to educate the novice on auto detailing and provide concourse quality detailing tips.

The Basics

Auto detailing is the process of making an automobile look its best without major dismantling or repainting. But, detailing is much more than a quick wash and vacuuming. Detailing requires careful planning and methods. Today's car detailing is an art.

The following is an overview of proven professional tips and some little secrets learned over the years.

Washing

• Always remove rings, watches and other jewelry. Be alert to belt buckles and rivets on jeans as all will scratch the paint surfaces.
• Never use soaps containing sodium or those high in alkaline content. Use only mild car wash soaps that are nuetral based (ph7).
• Never use household detergents as they can strip wax and burn the paint. Wax type soaps or hot waxes are not the cure for a dull unpolished suface. In fact, when combined with an oxidized surface loaded with contaminants, they may even make the car look worse after it has dried. Never use powdered car wash soaps. A single grain of powder, not completely dissolved can scratch the paint surface.
• Make sure the car is cool and in the shade.
• Do not use a high pressure stream of water because it can force dirt against the paint suface causing scratches, removing stickers, and peeling paint.
• Never vigorously scrub your car's finish to remove stains. If necessary, advance to a stronger cleaner for spot cleaning of stubborn stains.
• Start with wheels and tires they take the most time and effort. Use a tire brush to remove road grime.
• Keep the car cool and wet during washing. This simply allows you to wash it more efficiently and eliminate the possibility of the car wash soap drying on the paint and streaking. A cool surface allows you more time to dry it properly.
• Water spots are salt and mineral deposits left when water evaporates. These salts "bite" into paint. If they remain for any length of time, it is difficult to remove. Quality car wash products will provide a strong plating action to keep water spots from "bite" in paint. If the car already has numerous difficult water spots, they can often be readily removed with a soft terry cloth towel, with the spot dampened with a little white vinegar.
• Three table spoons baking soda to water will neutralize any acids in the wash water. Make sure all the baking soda is completely dissolved.
• Remove the license plate frames and the plates themselves. Also remove any easily removable emblems to wash behind them.
• Use a 5 gallon bucket for the wash process. This lets the dirt being rinsed out of the sponge or mitt to settle to the bottom of the bucket, instead of being re-applied to the surfaces.
• 100% cotton wash mitts and towels or high quality natural sea sponges are best for use.
• Do not use synthetic wash mitts as their fibers are to stiff and will cause unwanted hairline scratches on the finish.
• Always use a extra mitt for tires vs. a mitt for the underbody. Use fresh car wash mix and mitts for the body.
• Wash in a back in the forth method. Moving from front to back on the car. Message the body in this manner will aid in the prevention of swirl marks. A circular pattern may cause spider webbing.
• A three (3) inch soft natural, bristled paint brush works well in washing around headlights, mirrors, window trim and emblems that a wash mitt can not reach.
• When using brushes, some can be cut to length. Always apply duck tape around the metal part of the brush to prevent accidental scratches.
• · An old soft toothbrush is a must on dirt from the lettering located on the tail and side light lens. That is the only place a toothbrush should be used as they will scratch other parts of the car.
• For drying - use thick terry cloth towels to reduce microscopic scratching. What about a chamois you ask? They are not recommended. A chamois is typically hard to keep clean. They can drag the dirt back across the paint. Chamois will also streak and hold grit and dirt particles.
• Cloth toweling can be put in the washing machine and dryer to be ready for next time. Normal laundering is adequate. Make sure the soap is phosphate free.
• Machine drying for toweling is fine. However, Fabric softeners are not recommended as they introduce unwanted chemicals into the cotton fibers.
• Dry the car in the same fashion as you washed. Use the back and forth method.

Wheels and Tires

• Each time the brake is applied, your expensive wheels are bombarded with heated fine metallic particles. Each being baked onto the surface. As the dust remains, pitting sets in, thus destroying the appearance of the wheels. Do not let brake dust and grime build upon the wheels for more than 3 weeks. Regular maintenance with a non-abrasive cleaner will prevent etching and damage. Never use abrasive material or chemicals that can destroy the clear coat finish.
• Do not use cleaning solutions that have a high acid or alkaline content. Safe and effective wheel cleaners should have a PH factor of 8.5 to 9.5.
• Always wash wheels when cooled to prevent possible damage to brake rotors and the wheels themselves.
• When detailing custom wheels, get creative. Use everything from Q-Tips to popsicle sticks and towels to get into those difficult to reach areas. Some professionals have used a show polish applicator.
• Some detailers also use corn starch and a clean rag to take off any excess grit left behind by the polish. You will be amazed what will come off on the rag.
• With wheels with a protective clearcoat - use a wheel brush, an old soft toothbrush or a baby bottle brush. Never use a gritty polish on a coated wheel. You will rub the clear coat off and that will then allow contaminates to ruin the wheels.
• Whitewall cleaners do a good job, but there is chances of overspray on the body. Instead, many detailers prefer the low cost and maneuverability of SOS pads for whitewalls and raised white letters on the tires. Use a small cropped brush, soap and pads make short work of cleaning.
• After the tires are completely dry, a good protectant can be used. Professionals and show judges caution against the use of petroleum based tire dressings, as they attract dirt. Also the high gloss synthetic look is not natural to rubber or vinyl. One other item on dressings - there are dressings containing a solvent that opens the pores in the rubber allowing silicones better penetration. The solvent was blamed for drying out the rubber, thus causing cracks and splits.
• Apply a good dressing to a rag first, then to the tire. This eliminates the risk of applying the protectant unevenly as well as hitting the wheels and body.
• Water and polyurethane based protectants dry to a satin finish, rather than a high gloss and will tend to wear better and longer to have a natural look.

Polishing

• Polish merely cleans the surface in preparation for wax. After a polish, always follow with a "quality" wax. At shows, a polish, just before judging can be applied.
• Glazes and polishes are in essence the same products. Professional's do not recommend those products on a weekly basis. These products feature a very high rate of distillates in their formulas to cut dirt and oxidation. They offer no added protection, depth or shine to the paint surface
• When polishing, let it do the work by applying it in a straight line rather than a circular motion or you run the risk of putting swirl marks in the paint.
• Use of Buffers - Unless you are a professional, buffers is a sure way to destroy paint. With today's exotic clear coat metallic paint jobs, a buffer can be absolutely deadly. Clear coat paint jobs are very susceptible.
• There are two types of compounds:
  1. Rubbing - very strong and gritty. The purpose is to remove dead paint and wipes out stubborn stains and tough paint blemishes. Use this product as a last resort.
  2. Polishing - Mild abrasive. Removes more paint than a sealer and will renew the paint while doing the least damage. Polish also works on scratch removal. · Polishing will not fill small cracks in newly exposed paint. Glazes and sealers fill cracks and scratches, which help to make the surface feel smooth.
• Plastic polish is best for removal of fine scratches and swirl marks and is safe for clear coat finishes.
• Polish, glazes and sealers will not protect the paint against sun and weather. A protecting wax must be applied which also will enhance the shine and depth.

Waxing

• Two coats of wax is better than a single heavy one.
• Lasting quality of wax varies with climate, sun exposure and temperature. A carnauba base wax lasts longer. For application, one must determine the most suitable car regiment for your needs. This is based on auto age, color, and operating environment as well as frequency of use. These are the deciding factors. It is important to remember that one cannot see wax degradation. Paint that looks like it needs a wax is actually showing paint damage.
• Avoid waxing in the sun. It would be like frying an egg on a hot surface. Keep the surface of the car cool.
• Spray waxes do not last because the contents must be thinned to allow the formula to flow through the nozzle. Do not spray directly on the body. Instead spray on an applicator or you are going to have a lot of overspray to clean up.
• Paste wax can harden if improperly stored for lengthy periods and could cause scratches if applied in that condition.
• Liquid waxes - Never squirt directly onto the paint. Apply to an applicator first for the best results.
• Good paint needs wax to help keep it oily, due to the fact that paint needs to breathe and wax keeps the paint pores open. This is also true for cars with a clear coat.
• Clear coats are commonly used today over metallic or water based paints to produce gloss and extend durability. Regular waxing is very important. If left unprotected and not waxed, the clear coat will thin and the paint color will appear dull and continue the deterioration.
• Sealers can dry paint out because it actually seals too well and the paint can not breathe.
• Some polymer silicone products are touted as containing Teflon. The draw back here is that these types of sealers is that when the product begins to break down, the particles of silicone actually drift into the paint and can contaminate it.
• Some older types of wax will tear up the finish and clear coats on newer cars.
• While waxing, use the body lines and seams as guides to divide the body into sections. Use the back and forth method.
• Wax build up in crevices can be removed with a fine camel hair brush. Do not use a toothbrush, as it will scratch the surface. Also note that wax left on the car is a major deduction in concourse level shows. Remember to tape the metal part of the brush.
• When waxing - take your time!
• Do not forget to use a correct wax applicator pad.
• To remove the wax, use a cloth towel.

Glass, Trim and Moldings

• Remove all unnecessary stickers as they distract from the overall appearance of the car in a show. Judges dislike them. Razors on glass is fine, but on paint use your fingernail, warm water. The warm water will moisten the sticker and make it easier to remove.
• Glass cleaners - Windex is fine but some people mix ammonia with water ( a capful per ½ bucket of water).
• Regardless of the glass cleaner used, never let the glass cleaner on the painted surfaces Protect the cars finish by laying towels on the surfaces prior to cleaning the glass.
• Do not overlook the trim - dressing. Apply this by hand.
• Anodized aluminum is fragile. Never use polish, as the slightest grit will surely remove anodization. Apply a very light coat of a protective liquid wax.
• Rubber moldings should be cleaned with soap and a toothbrush. Paint overspray and other stains can be removed with paint thinner. In some cases you may have to carefully use lacquer thinner to remove deep paint stains. Use extreme caution with lacquer thinner as it can quickly mar any paint or plastic surface. Then after the cleaning process dress the molding with your favorite brand of dressing.

Engine Compartment

• CLEAN is the word - either custom or original.
• If the engine is cosmoline covered, first use a citrus cleaner to remove the majority of the chemical. WD-40 will also work. Use a soft detailing brush and apply the cleaner, brush and wipe. Repeat as required. Never do large sections of the motor at a time.
• Make sure all rubber is dressed.
• Judges have been known to check even wires (spark or otherwise) for correct curvature coming out of the control boxes or distributors. Make sure every wire is properly tie wrapped. Stay away from cheap hose covers that simulate braided lines.
• Dirt under the radiator overflow hoses is a common point loser. Almost all show detailers forget this one. During a full show detail, all engine hoses should be removed from the brackets, cleaned and dressed.
• Align all hose clamps, screw slots should also be vertical and any cotter pins straight and bent in the same manner.
• Remove all engine debris with high pressure air. Make sure all radiator and/or cooler fins are straightened.
• As far as originality in the engine: Do not overlook the paint marks placed on items in and on the engine at the factory. They mean more points if they were not removed or painted over.

Other Show Details and Tips

• Caring for lug nuts - chrome and painted lug nuts may be scratched while being removed and re-tightened. To prevent this, place a piece of plastic (a heavy duty plastic freezer bag) over the lug nuts before using your wrench of choice. A rag on a lug nut will just tear.
• All tires, dash boards, vinyl and seats must be cleaned before you apply a coat of protection. Sealed in contaminates always attack the surface, cloud the appearance and shorten durability.
• Cotton swabs are useful on the exterior as well as the interior. Inside they are used to remove dust from vents, slots and grooves. Outside, you can use them to remove wax from emblems, and to apply wax and dressings in tight spaces.
• It is recommended that you remove the windshield wipers and detail them as well. Moreover, you do not run the risk of snagging the buffer or polishing rag on them.
• Do not overlook the rubber trim. Use a rubber cleaner that really makes these semi-gloss black parts shine as well as clean.
• Use semi-gloss on door handles, side mirrors and cowl vents on new cars, as chrome on classic cars require special care.
• Door jams and the hood and trunk lids are part of the detailing. Judges look at these just as hard as the main body.
• Fender / Wheel wells cost points at a show. These need to be cleaned and look new.
• Pledge furniture polish works well to shine fender wells and the underbody.
• Use plastic polish on headlights, side markers, tail light lens and inside gauges. Never use anything that has an abrasive in it on plastic while cleaning and detailing.
• A treated duster will leave streaks when used in the hot sun on a hot finish.
• Fanatical enthusiasts like everything to be in perfect order. This means lining up screw heads so they all point in the same direction. We do this with wheel center caps as well.
• If and when a touch up spray paining is needed to the underbody or other areas (yes I detail the under carriage as well) - use your thumb to operate the paint can. A lot of show detailers claim this gives them better control of the spray and makes it easier to reach tight spaces.
• Heat paint cans in a sink of warm water to improve paint flow and maximize pressure.
• Exhaust tips and mufflers are best cleaned with SOS pads and the inside of the exhaust pipes can be cleaned with shop rags and SOS pads. Yes - the judges look under the car and inside the exhaust pipes.
• After dusting interior vents, adjust the vents so they all point in the same direction - horizontally and vertically.
• If your car is not garaged, protect it with a good car cover. But always use a cotton cover because nylon covers can catch grime and grit in the nylon and thus scratch the finish.
• Check your water, since well water may spot and stain. Some owners have made the mistake of washing their cars with well water. The problem here is iron in the water which will cause a red stain.
• If the water is high in sodium or chlorides, it can leave a white residue on the finish.
• If the PH number is on the acid side, that could damage the finish.
• When a car gets dirt on it, nothing beats clean water to get it off. Do not rub a dry car with a rag. You will scratch it. Use a bucket of tested water or buy a few gallons of spring water that has been tested.
• Wax puts a barrier there to preserve the paint. Dirt spots will rinse off easily. If you keep a car waxed, the paint's in better shape, and in the long run, you will enjoy your daily driver, classic or show car a lot more. This is besides the fact that its value will be maintained.

© 1999 Angela Brown and Paul Gasparola